Please double-check my builds

 

Just did.

The RAM I selected does not show up, BUT:

The black version of the RAM has the Modelnumber CMK32GX5M2B5600C36 and is supported

The grey version of the RAM has the Modelnumber CMK32GX5M2B5600Z36 and does not show up in the MSI Support list.

I doubt that it is not supported. More likely they just didn't list every color variant.

It is highly likely that you are correct. Well done!

 

Quote

 

Also does the RAM have enough clearance under the CPU cooler?

Don't know and don't know how to find out.

Well, two main choices: either contact ThermalRight or look at schematics. It has some differences in design with the regular edition. I assume that your case is wide enough for 157mm. I had to manually measure all around the socket and then measure the schematics to make sure I had picked one that would actually fit (I got it right) - had I just taken the advice of others, I had several that wouldn't have fit.

 

I checked. And I don't like the other boards.

The MSI MAG Z690 Tomahawk WIFI DDR4 looks promising and is 50€ cheaper than the MSI MPG Z690 Force WIFI. And another 43€ on the RAM. So about 95€ saved overall.

But I prefer the MSI MPG Z690 Force WIFI a lot, so I will go for that.

Why not go with a different brand if you're not thrilled with what MSI has to offer?

"Don't know and don't know how to find out."

The RAM cards will have specified height dimensions.  The cooler will have RAM clearance dimensions specified or shown in a diagram/image. Usually there is a few mm or more clearance and that works OK. Also some RAM says it's low profile (LP) and often that is easier to understand.

"But whether I will get a board with DDR4 I am not sure. "

DDR4 is  maybe cheaper (saves you some money) and the DDR5 isn't really needed unless doing professional/ high end gaming or professional work. 

ATM.  That will change with the next 14th gen Intel Cores as it will be only DDR5; and DDR4 can no longer be used. 

But it's your decision not mine as it's your new build. I just suggest to you a few things.

Edited by 0lds0d, 02 April 2023 - 08:04 PM.

I just ordered every piece of hardware I wanted. The 12600k, the MSI Force Mobo, DDR 5 RAM, etc.

All I got left is buying the operating system. Could someone explain to me what options I have there?

As far as I know Windows 11 is better than Windows 10 (costs almost the same and Win10 is dead in 2 years).

Win 11 Pro is better than Home. And I most likely don't need anything higher, especially since I don't work in IT or have a business myself.

But there are different kinds of licenses: OEM, Retail, DSP/SB and ESD. I learned what they stand for Original Equipment Manufacturer, Delivery Servive Partner/System Builder, etc.

I guess a DSP/SB license would fit me, since I am now a System Builder. And also it's the only kind geizhals.de has listed.

But there is the question of ESD or not. geizhals has some ESD keys offered for around 55€. Not sure how good they are, I saw one listed as an OEM license, not DSP/SB

A DVD version is atleast 140€

And buying Pro from Microsoft directly is over 250€...

So I don't know what to make of this. Or if Pro is so much better than Home. It sounds nice, but Home supports plenty Hardware and the cool software, like encryption, Virtual Machines and Remote Desktop stuff? Yeah, we have had programs for that for the last 20 years or more.

But then the price difference is only 40€

Edited by EverythingIsBleeping, 01 May 2023 - 09:31 AM.

Windows Pro 11 is OK.

OEM is a key licensed just once to the hardware and can not be transferred to another desktop - it is locked to that device and only that device.

Retail is a key basically licensed to you and it can be transferred to another newer machine - basically a life time key.

"since I am now a System Builder"

Actually no  or maybe - don't know much about it but you are a home builder. AFAIK. I can't verify if this will properly work for you.

If the " DSP/SB" works and are perfectly legitimate, then maybe consider this.

But these are basically the same as a OEM key - these can't be transferred to another machine whereas a Windows Retail license is for life.

So depends - do you want a "life time" license or just a "use once" license? 

Either Windows Pro OEM or Retail will work for you - depending if you want a one time use key or a life time key. JMO.

Edited by 0lds0d, 01 May 2023 - 12:07 PM.

I would rather have a lifetime key. Not that I love Windows that much. But I don't wanna spend more money later if my Mobo kills itself or some bleep like that.

Weirdly, the german price comparison sites like idealo and geizhals don't have them.

I can choose between DSP/SB on a DVD, which is another form of OEM, for 140-150€

a retail license on a USB-Stick for 210-220€

or get a maybe trustworthy DSP/SB ESD license, so just the key and download yourself, for 50-60€

I don't know. A nice retali license sounds great, but realistically, how many Mother boards could I fry through or computers could I change before Win 12 comes out? (In case they don't finally make a Linux version that run Windows software decently).

Spoiler alert, given that the ESD license is legit, I could go through 3 before spending more than I would when I get the DSP/SB license and 4 if I go for retail. And the seller got pretty good reviews on geizhals, with people specifically saying the bought the Win11 ESD license and it worked. The seller themself says they don't sell licenses, but MAK keys that they buy from companies like hp, Dell and so on.

What the heck are those?

Moneywise, that would be a cheaper option for sure. The chances that I go through 4 motherboards before Win 11 is outdated is pretty low. I plan to have my new PC for atleast 5 years. And even then it would be just another 50 and I am halfway to retail.

I actually found out that my current Win7 installment is a OEM System Builder license that is running for over 10 years now.

I am thinking I am gonna go for that MAK key, buy some rando USB-Stick from the store and then use the Windows Media Creation Tool to install an .iso on it.

But I don't quite know what exactly they are and how they work.

Edited by EverythingIsBleeping, 01 May 2023 - 02:56 PM.

  @ RevGAM 

Edited by 0lds0d, 02 May 2023 - 11:51 PM.

Those cheap keys are not legal to be sold like that. Only the company that bought them, not the vendor, is supposed to use them. Will they work? Probably, but for how long if MS cracks down?

More info in this video: https://youtu.be/uEuDRla0RWo

He mentioned Germany once, but shortly, at 6:30. Which is where I live. As far as I know buying and selling keys not tied to specific hardware is legal here and even advertised by German PC Magazines. Microsoft doesn't like it, but apparently isn't taking action either. And I heard that sellers offer a replacement key, if the one you bought is getting deactivated. These sellers also are registered traders in Germany.

It doesn't look like I am breaking the law buying and using one of those keys and at worst Microsoft deactivates the key and I probably lost the money I paid for it. But with a site like lizensio selling keys at 15€ (https://www.lizensio.de/Windows11-Pro/LIZ10110.1) that wouldn't even be a huge loss. Compared to buying a retail license from a computer store for 215€.

So, what if I got my new PC set up, download the latest version of Win 11 via the Media Creation Tool, install that with the Generic Key for Win 11 Pro (https://www.anoopcnair.com/generic-windows-11-product-keys-license-details/) and then try one of the cheap keys to activate it?

I'm just informing you of the legality. It doesn't matter whether those selling them are "legal traders". The contract between MS and businesses that buy licenses in bulk is clear - reselling those keys to anyone is prohibited.

What you do with this information is your choice.

Best-case scenario: You enjoy the cheap key for years to come.

Middle-case scenario: It gets deactivated. Your computer will not be adversely affected - Windows will just nag you to buy a license.

Worse-case scenario: MS comes after you. Or...Depending on how you get Windows itself (e.g. from the MS website vs from a third-party vendor), a version that doesn't match the key you have. Usually it's the key that's for an older version, but I bought one from a overstock reseller of Amazon's cast-offs and got both a bogus DVD with an older version AND a key for a different version - which wasn't valid according to MS when I called to confirm. I had also bought Office for my daughter and that, too, was fraudulent. Why Amazon didn't destroy things like that is probably because they just don't care.

Worst-case scenario: When buying on the black market (some people euphemistically call it the grey market, but we're dealing with what amounts to stolen keys), you always run the risk of the data you enter to complete the sale being used for nefarious purposes, such as trying to steal your CC info or your identity. It happens all the time. Not quite as bad (initially, at least) as that is the alternative I didn't mention about the fraudulent packages in the previous scenario: trojans.

If you're only buying a key, not a DVD, however, you're unlikely to experience anything other than having it deactivated and/or your personal data stolen, up to and including your identity (or the data is sold on the dark web).

I understand that you want to save money. Back in the old pre-Internet days, you could get pirated software and never have to worry about malware. Nowadays, well over 80%, I'd guess, is malware-infested, plus the criminals make legit games that are trojans and put them on Google Play, Apple Store, and 3rd-party software platforms. And the legit companies are harvesting your data and reselling it and/or sending it to foreign governments (e.g. China owns shares in several gaming companies in the US, like Epic and CoD).

Having my personal data stolen is also not something I would enjoy. I didn't know that was possible.

I just bought Win 11 Pro Retail from a reputable Online-Shop and be happy that I pay 44€ than if I were to buy it from Microsoft directly.

Man, this PC cost me 1400€ in total. Way more than I had planned. But the thing should be worth it.

Sehr Gut Mein Herr.

Having my personal data stolen is also not something I would enjoy. I didn't know that was possible.

I just bought Win 11 Pro Retail from a reputable Online-Shop and be happy that I pay 44€ than if I were to buy it from Microsoft directly.

 

Man, this PC cost me 1400€ in total. Way more than I had planned. But the thing should be worth it.

I've paid over $2,000 for my PC. Now if only someone could help me get rid of the Chromium exploit that Capitol One Shopping (most likely) put on my system.

I got nearly all my parts now. Only the CPU cooler is lacking behind because of delivery problems. Since I already got this thread open I wanted to ask about tips for putting it together. I already worked on PCs and replaced parts, but never built a full PC from scratch.

For example is there any need for anti-static wristbands or is touching the radiator good enough, especially when I never got an electrostatic discharge in my home?

Would it help to wear rubber gloves? It should stop static shocks as well as fatty fingerprints on contacts.

Is it recommend to do any special pattern with the thermal paste?

My MOBO has 4 RAM Slots and I have two RAM sticks (2x16GB), do they go into A1/B1 or A2/B2?

How often should I update my BIOS?

Detail stuff like that.

Edited by EverythingIsBleeping, 15 May 2023 - 08:31 AM.

In my experience, the best practices are:
Never remove a non-plug-and-play cable or part when the power is on. ZAP!

Never touch any part of a component where there is metal. ZAP!

Prior to starting, discharge any buildup of static electricity by touching something metal, preferably something grounded. But, please, don't stick your finger in an electrical socket! ZAP!

If you've got a wrist/ankle band, use it. Put it on whichever limb is least likely to jerk it off while moving away from whatever it's connected to (the ground).

Do not wear materials that will promote the buildup of static electricity. Note that I'm not saying you should do it naked! ;)

Assemble as much of it as you can outside of the case. Put it on a non-conductive surface and don't pour liquids on it. ;) Keep it away from your pets, too. They're far more likely to zap it than you are!

Gloves depend on what the material actually is.

Multiple testers and reviewers have demonstrated that the pattern you use is not important unless it causes the formation of a very large air bubble under the cooler. They have also demonstrated that sometimes a little is too little, and it's hard to put on too much unless it's seeping out the sides and onto the mobo. If it's liquid metal, BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET IT SPILL OUT, IT HAS GALLIUM IN IT!!!

Which two slots depends on the mobo. Please read the instructions.
 

Update your BIOS when there is a new, stable BIOS version that does NOT void your warranty. If you have ASUS, they put out a new BIOS version to combat the problem of CPUs and mobos being destroyed, but using it voids the warranty. Don't use Asus. Jayz2Cents severed their ties with Asus, and I think Gamers Nexus will, too. Watch their videos on the subject.

Building a PC is easy. Take your time, but make sure you understand before you start, especially if there is a time component (e.g. after applying thermal compound, don't let it sit there for 3 days). If you've replaced parts, you probably already know enough to be able to build a PC, and you have the confidence to try.

What else are you curious about?